Shampoos - Conditioners - FAQ's - Tips
Most Salon Brands do not
build up on hair, they continue to work effectively as long as you use them,
so there’s no need to switch products (another myth debunked). However,
shampooing occasionally without using any conditioner or styling products
to give hair a rest. Choosing the right products for your hair - Fine or
thin hair can sometimes be more delicate and could benefit from a protein
enriched shampoo and conditioner formula with a light level of conditioner.
Curly hair may look dry, and therefore can benefit from a regime that includes
Here is a guide to how gentle your shampoo is according to the surfactant
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - very, very, harsh
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate- very harsh but better than the above
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate- better than the above, but still a little harsh
Sodium Laureth Sulfate-gentle, great pick!
Be kind to wet hair:
Shampoo and towel dry gently.
If hair tangles easily, apply a clean-rinsing conditioner in the shower and
then immediately comb with a wide-toothed comb before rinsing out the conditioner.
Comb wet hair gently and slowly with a wide-toothed comb.
Take time to detangle knots. Don't yank at them.
Never brush wet hair. You will stretch it too much and cause breakage.
The truth is that trimming your hair anywhere along the hair shaft will give
you a clean, even look. But cutting away split ends that occur above the
ends of the hair may still leave damaged hair, making splits worse rather
than better. The hair tends to abrade even more, resulting in another dreaded
split end. Prevent split ends altogether by caring for hair with the right
conditioning and care regimen, and have hair ends trimmed regularly.
All Frizzed Out:
People with naturally curly, coarse, or damaged hair know all about the frizzies.
But most everyone has a frizz attack at one time or another, usually when
the weather is wet and rainy. Even a little humidity in the air can make
straight-and-smooth blow dry style frizz up instantly! Control damaged hair
and frizzies with style and care products designed to fight them.
We recommend: MOP: d.curl,
Joico K-Pak: Split End Mender and Silk Result Sheer Gloss by Joico,
Kevin Murphy: Body.Guard Hydrating Lotion, TIGI Bedhead: Ego
Boost, After Party, OsisMagic, LorealLiss Control and TIGI Bedhead Control
Don't Tease Me! I Break:
When you tease or backcomb the hair, you're actually ripping away its cuticle
protection. This exposes the hair's sensitive inner layer, the cortex, and
leaves it vulnerable to breakage.
To protect your hair, comb your hair smoothly downward, from roots to ends,
helping the cuticles' "shingles" lie flat and smooth. Backcombing
makes the "shingles" stick up, so hair doesn't shine and a coarse,
frizzy, fly-away look is created.
For Sun Bathers:
When laying out apply a good conditioner with sunscreens
in it. The heat from the sun will help the action of the conditioner and
the sunscreens will block out the UV rays which cause hair damage.
We Recommend: Lanza: Swim & Sun Conditioner, KMS SOLperfection range and Kevin.Murphy Motion.Lotion formerly Hair.Screen products.
Use a good "clarifying " shampoo. The main ingredient
to look for is E.D.T.A.. It is like a chemical claw that will remove all the
chlorine in the hair. Chlorine is damaging to the hair and will also join with
copper sulfate in the hair and turn it "swimmers' green."
We Recommend: Lanza: Swim & Sun
Shampoo, Davines : NATURAL TECH Environmental Damage Recovery Shampoo, KMS HEADREMEDY: Clarify
Shampoo and Kevin Murphy: Maxi.Wash.
If you have a dry or flaky scalp it could be for a variety of reasons. Changes
in weather climates can affect scalp moisture. Winter produces a dry climate
in houses and the cold air outside makes skin chapped. Medications can also
cause dry scalps. It is very important to correct dry/flaky scalps as sebum
build up can clog hair follicles which could lead to early hair loss.
We Recommend: Avec: Moisture Rescue Shampoo, Bonacure : Sensitive Soothe Conditioner and
Joico : Daily Care Treatment Shampoo .
Care for Dry Hair:
Dry hair lacks sufficient natural oils. To care for dry hair, you'll want
to preserve the natural oil it has and add moisture with specially formulated
dry hair remedies. Don't forget: Condition dry hair often, especially when
hot combing or blow drying.
Avoid too-frequent chemical treatments, which can be overly drying to oil-deprived
Shampooing dry hair every day is not necessary. Women with very coarse, dry,
or super curly hair may only need to shampoo once a week to maintain a fresh
look. When you do shampoo, choose a moisturizing shampoo.
We Recommend: Goldwell Kerasilk: Ultra
Rich Shampoo, Osmo Essence: Deep Moisturising Shampoo, Joico: Moisture Recovery,
Matrix Biolage: Ultra-Hydrating Shampooand
L'anza: Daily Elements Moisturising shampoo.
Care for Oily Hair:
Keep oily hair clean, clean, clean. That means shampooing every day at least
once. Don't forget:
If you exercise vigorously and sweat a lot, you may need to shampoo twice a
Use a good cleansing shampoo on oily hair.
Use conditioners sparingly.
A mild finishing rinse made for oily hair will help with combing.
We Recommend: Joico: Daily Care Treatment Shampoo,
MOP Basil Mint Conditioner,
Wella Lifetex: Balanced Anti Grease Shampoo and
Lanza: Daily Elements Clarifying Shampoo.
People with thick hair have about 150,000 on their heads.
Most people who have thick hair like the thickness, though combing can sometimes
be a challenge. Use a finishing-rinse conditioner with silicone as an ingredient
or use a leave-in treatment. If you have a lot of thick hair, it's important
to get a good haircut that complements the proportions of your face.
We Recommend: Tigi Bed Head: Small Talk,
Matrix Essentials: Instacure
leave-in treatment or MOP:
People with thin hair have about 90,000 strands on their heads.
A major complaint with thin hair is limpness. To help avoid the thin hair,
limp-locks look, especially on damp days, try styling products that build volume
in thin hair without weighing the hair down. Using hair color also helps to
add volume, as hair color actually contains properties that slightly puff up
each strand to help it look fuller.
We Recommend: American Crew: Thickening
Lotion, KMS Add Volume: range,
Fudge Body Builder shampoo, Matrix Amplify range and MOP GlistenVolumizing Spray.
What is a Conditioner?
The term "conditioner" is vague. Conditioners fall into different
groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with
thin hair need a specific kind of "conditioner", people with thick,
dry hair need another...
Conditioners fall into these categories:
Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and
hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain botanicals
or protein (they often do).Reconstructors
Normally contain protein. Hydrolized human hair keratin protein is the best
source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair
keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables it to penetrate
the hairshaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strenghten
Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's 2.5 to 3.5.
They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some "shield" the
hairshaft with polymers (polymers are strings of "like" molecules-
a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.Thermal Protectors
Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat. Using thermal protectors
are one of the best things you can do to your hair if you blow dry, use curling
irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat absorbing polymers that distribute
the heat, so your hair does not get heat damage (a major cause of hair damage).Glossers
For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain dimethicone
or cyclomethicone ( very light oils derved from silicone). Used in small
amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the bestproducts to control
Q. Are salon products any better than products purchased in chemists
A. In general yes. Most salon brands use gentler surfacants in more concentrated
amounts. Also, many high street brands produce products limiting the quality
or amount of ingredients vital to maintain healthy hair.
Q. I have used conditioners but they all seem to weigh my hair down. Is there
Q. Does diet affect my hair?
A. Yes. The reasons your hair may be weighed down are:
You should not use the product as often.
The molecular weight of the product is too high. High molecular weighted
products can coat the hair and cause over protection.
You may be using the improper type of "conditioner". Conditioners
generally fall into 4 categories:
Reconstructors - make the hair stronger. See: Joico K-Pak Reconstructor
Rinses and Acidifiers - close the cuticle and seal the hair. See:
TIGI S-factor: Smoothing Lusterizer
Moisturizers - balance the moisture content in the cortex of the
hair. See: MOP extreme moisture treatment
Thermal protectors - prevent heat damage before it starts. See:
You may be using too much of the product.
Look for products which contain hydrolized human hair keratin protein. Products
with hydrolized human keratin protein generally are best because the products
generally have low molecular weights. This provides for a superior product
that does not weigh the hair down.
A. Yes! Here are some ideas to build better hair from the inside out...
more protein rich foods.
Supplements of choline and inositol help hair development.
Supplements of tyrosine (an amino acid) play a vital role in hair growth.
Supplements of B vitamins help produce healthy hair.
Supplements of biotin, cysteine,and cystine aid in healthy hair growth.
Q. I need more volume to my hair. How do I achieve this?
A. Get a "wave" (not a curly perm), just enough to create the volume
OR 2. Use a Volumizer. - Apply virtually any styling tool to the roots and
comb or work through to the ends. "Volume" occurs at the scalp area
, not the ends.
Q. My hair is always "frizzy", what do I do?
A. There are many great silicone based products now that will knock out the
frizzies in one step. Ingredients to look for are: Dimethicone and or cyclomethicone.
They are VERY light silicone oils that can even be used on fine hair. Most
of the products available are extremely concentrated, so usually a few drops
will do the trick.
We Recommend: Matrix Sleek range,
Control, Osis Magic.
Q. What is actually the difference between hair spray and hair lacquer?
A. The products contain different setting films. Those in lacquer are especially
strong and hold longer. This is why you should always use lacquer for extreme
hairstyles, but hair spray for a natural, yet firm hold.
Q. Should I apply conditioner to the roots or just the ends?
A. Ideally you should apply your conditioner where you need it most. It is
usually the mid lengths and ends of the hair that require more moisturizing
because this hair is older and been subjected to more drying influences such
as heated styling aids, brushing, combing and exposure to the sun, wind etc.
The root area shouldn't really need conditioning as this hair is young and
healthy and the natural oils will keep it lubricated.
Q. Occasionally my scalp gets quite itchy. What could causing this?
A. There are a few simple things that could be to blame. If your hair is dirty,
greasy or has a build up of styling product this can cause irritation. If
you have been scratching your scalp you may have broken the skin and this
can irritate if products are then applied. Residues of shampoo and conditioner
that have not been fully rinsed from the hair may also cause the scalp to
itch, make sure to rinse your hair in clean running water.
For Fuller Hair
To get volume in your hair, instead of teasing it, try spraying the roots with
a light hairspray while holding them up with a round brush.
To put the bounce back in fine hair, try volumizing shampoos, conditioners
See Matrix Amplify
or Joico Body Luxe
If you have thick, coarse or very curly hair, try a leave-in conditioner. Works
Use conditioners that protect against daily stresses that cause damaged hair,
including UV rays, pollutants, hard water, atmospheric conditions and heat
For Thick Hair:
Leave-in hair conditioners are great for anyone with thick, coarse or very
curly hair. They help detangle thick hair and can protect your hair from
For Thin Hair:
Applying hair color can make thin look fuller. Applying mousse to the roots
can also make hair appear thicker. Nioxin and Indola have product ranges for thinning hair.
In humid climates, use a shine or glosser product containing silicone. It helps
keep hair smooth. Try Joico K-Pak Protect and Shine serum.
Smooth Hair Styling:
Look for blow dryers with attachments that help concentrate heat on one area
at a time. Use the high heat setting while gently pulling hair straight to
create a smooth, even finish.
Conditioning Healthy Hair:
Use a leave-in conditioning treatment to smooth the cuticles of hair that may
have been stressed though chemical processing.
Prevent breakage. Don't brush wet hair. Avoid over-use of high-heat stylers.
Back to Top