Hair Care Tips and Advice

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Hair Care Tips and Advice

Shampoos - Conditioners - FAQ's - Tips

Switching shampoos?
Most Salon Brands do not build up on hair, they continue to work effectively as long as you use them, so there’s no need to switch products (another myth debunked). However, shampooing occasionally without using any conditioner or styling products to give hair a rest. Choosing the right products for your hair - Fine or thin hair can sometimes be more delicate and could benefit from a protein enriched shampoo and conditioner formula with a light level of conditioner. Curly hair may look dry, and therefore can benefit from a regime that includes moisturizing ingredients.

Here is a guide to how gentle your shampoo is according to the surfactant used:
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - very, very, harsh
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate- very harsh but better than the above
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate- better than the above, but still a little harsh
Sodium Laureth Sulfate-gentle, great pick!

Be kind to wet hair:
Shampoo and towel dry gently.
If hair tangles easily, apply a clean-rinsing conditioner in the shower and then immediately comb with a wide-toothed comb before rinsing out the conditioner.
Comb wet hair gently and slowly with a wide-toothed comb.
Take time to detangle knots. Don't yank at them.
Never brush wet hair. You will stretch it too much and cause breakage.

Split Ends:
The truth is that trimming your hair anywhere along the hair shaft will give you a clean, even look. But cutting away split ends that occur above the ends of the hair may still leave damaged hair, making splits worse rather than better. The hair tends to abrade even more, resulting in another dreaded split end. Prevent split ends altogether by caring for hair with the right conditioning and care regimen, and have hair ends trimmed regularly. View: Split Ends Products

All Frizzed Out:
People with naturally curly, coarse, or damaged hair know all about the frizzies. But most everyone has a frizz attack at one time or another, usually when the weather is wet and rainy. Even a little humidity in the air can make straight-and-smooth blow dry style frizz up instantly! Control damaged hair and frizzies with style and care products designed to fight them. View: Frizzy Hair Products

Don't Tease Me! I Break:
When you tease or backcomb the hair, you're actually ripping away its cuticle protection. This exposes the hair's sensitive inner layer, the cortex, and leaves it vulnerable to breakage.
To protect your hair, comb your hair smoothly downward, from roots to ends, helping the cuticles' "shingles" lie flat and smooth. Backcombing makes the "shingles" stick up, so hair doesn't shine and a coarse, frizzy, fly-away look is created.

For Sun Bathers:
When laying out apply a good conditioner with sunscreens in it. The heat from the sun will help the action of the conditioner and the sunscreens will block out the UV rays which cause hair damage.

After Swimming:
Use a good "clarifying " shampoo. The main ingredient to look for is E.D.T.A.. It is like a chemical claw that will remove all the chlorine in the hair. Chlorine is damaging to the hair and will also join with copper sulfate in the hair and turn it "swimmers' green." View: Clarifying Hair Products

Dry/Flaky Scalp:
If you have a dry or flaky scalp it could be for a variety of reasons. Changes in weather climates can affect scalp moisture. Winter produces a dry climate in houses and the cold air outside makes skin chapped. Medications can also cause dry scalps. It is very important to correct dry/flaky scalps as sebum build up can clog hair follicles which could lead to early hair loss. View: Treatment Hair Products

Care for Dry Hair:
Dry hair lacks sufficient natural oils. To care for dry hair, you'll want to preserve the natural oil it has and add moisture with specially formulated dry hair remedies. Don't forget: Condition dry hair often, especially when hot combing or blow drying.
Avoid too-frequent chemical treatments, which can be overly drying to oil-deprived hair.
Shampooing dry hair every day is not necessary. Women with very coarse, dry, or super curly hair may only need to shampoo once a week to maintain a fresh look. When you do shampoo, choose a moisturizing shampoo. View: Dry Hair Products

Care for Oily Hair:
Keep oily hair clean, clean, clean. That means shampooing every day at least once. Don't forget:
If you exercise vigorously and sweat a lot, you may need to shampoo twice a day.
Use a good cleansing shampoo on oily hair.
Use conditioners sparingly.
A mild finishing rinse made for oily hair will help with combing. View: Oily/Greasy Hair Products

Thick Hair:
People with thick hair have about 150,000 on their heads.
Most people who have thick hair like the thickness, though combing can sometimes be a challenge. Use a finishing-rinse conditioner with silicone as an ingredient or use a leave-in treatment. If you have a lot of thick hair, it's important to get a good haircut that complements the proportions of your face.

Thin Hair:
People with thin hair have about 90,000 strands on their heads.
A major complaint with thin hair is limpness. To help avoid the thin hair, limp-locks look, especially on damp days, try styling products that build volume in thin hair without weighing the hair down. Using hair color also helps to add volume, as hair color actually contains properties that slightly puff up each strand to help it look fuller. View: Thick Hair Products

What is a Conditioner?
The term "conditioner" is vague. Conditioners fall into different groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair need a specific kind of "conditioner", people with thick, dry hair need another...
Conditioners fall into these categories:

Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain botanicals or protein (they often do).
Normally contain protein. Hydrolized human hair keratin protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables it to penetrate the hairshaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strenghten the hair.
Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's 2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some "shield" the hairshaft with polymers (polymers are strings of "like" molecules- a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.
Thermal Protectors
Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat. Using thermal protectors are one of the best things you can do to your hair if you blow dry, use curling irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat absorbing polymers that distribute the heat, so your hair does not get heat damage (a major cause of hair damage).
For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain dimethicone or cyclomethicone ( very light oils derved from silicone). Used in small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the bestproducts to control the "frizzies."


Q. Are salon products any better than products purchased in chemists and supermarkets
A. In general YES. Most salon brands use gentler surfacants in more concentrated amounts. Also, many high street brands produce products limiting the quality or amount of ingredients vital to maintain healthy hair.

Q. I have used conditioners but they all seem to weigh my hair down. Is there a solution?
A. Yes. The reasons your hair may be weighed down are:
You should not use the product as often.
The molecular weight of the product is too high. High molecular weighted products can coat the hair and cause over protection.
You may be using the improper type of "conditioner". Conditioners generally fall into 4 categories:
Reconstructors - make the hair stronger. See: Joico K-Pak Reconstructor
Rinses and Acidifiers - close the cuticle and seal the hair.
Moisturizers - balance the moisture content in the cortex of the hair.
Thermal protectors - prevent heat damage before it starts. See: Proclere Infatreat
You may be using too much of the product.
Look for products which contain hydrolized human hair keratin protein. Products with hydrolized human keratin protein generally are best because the products generally have low molecular weights. This provides for a superior product that does not weigh the hair down.

Q. Does diet affect my hair?
A. Yes! Here are some ideas to build better hair from the inside out...
Eat more protein rich foods.
Supplements of choline and inositol help hair development.
Supplements of tyrosine (an amino acid) play a vital role in hair growth.
Supplements of B vitamins help produce healthy hair.
Supplements of biotin, cysteine,and cystine aid in healthy hair growth.

Q. I need more volume to my hair. How do I achieve this?
A. Get a "wave" (not a curly perm), just enough to create the volume you desire.
OR 2. Use a Volumizer. - Apply virtually any styling tool to the roots and comb or work through to the ends. "Volume" occurs at the scalp area , not the ends.

Q. My hair is always "frizzy", what do I do?
A. There are many great silicone based products now that will knock out the frizzies in one step. Ingredients to look for are: Dimethicone and or cyclomethicone. They are VERY light silicone oils that can even be used on fine hair. Most of the products available are extremely concentrated, so usually a few drops will do the trick. View: Frizzy Hair Products

Q. What is actually the difference between hair spray and hair lacquer?
A. The products contain different setting films. Those in lacquer are especially strong and hold longer. This is why you should always use lacquer for extreme hairstyles, but hair spray for a natural, yet firm hold.

Q. Should I apply conditioner to the roots or just the ends?
A. Ideally you should apply your conditioner where you need it most. It is usually the mid lengths and ends of the hair that require more moisturizing because this hair is older and been subjected to more drying influences such as heated styling aids, brushing, combing and exposure to the sun, wind etc. The root area shouldn't really need conditioning as this hair is young and healthy and the natural oils will keep it lubricated.

Q. Occasionally my scalp gets quite itchy. What could causing this?
A. There are a few simple things that could be to blame. If your hair is dirty, greasy or has a build up of styling product this can cause irritation. If you have been scratching your scalp you may have broken the skin and this can irritate if products are then applied. Residues of shampoo and conditioner that have not been fully rinsed from the hair may also cause the scalp to itch, make sure to rinse your hair in clean running water.


For Fuller Hair:
To get volume in your hair, instead of teasing it, try spraying the roots with a light hairspray while holding them up with a round brush.
To put the bounce back in fine hair, try volumizing shampoos, conditioners and sprays.

See: Swell 3-Step Volumizing range, Matrix Amplify, Kevin.Murphy Powder Puff or Joico Body Luxe ranges.

For Styling:
If you have thick, coarse or very curly hair, try a leave-in conditioner. Works all day. View: Leave-in Conditioner Hair Products

For Healthy Hair:
Use conditioners that protect against daily stresses that cause damaged hair, including UV rays, pollutants, hard water, atmospheric conditions and heat styling. View: Repair Conditioner Hair Products

For Thin Hair:
Applying hair color can make thin hair look fuller. Applying mousse to the roots can also make hair appear thicker. View product ranges for thinning hair. View: Thin Hair Products

Smooth Hair:
In humid climates, use a shine or glosser product containing silicone. It helps keep hair smooth. View: Smoothing Hair Products

Smooth Hair Styling:
Look for blow dryers with attachments that help concentrate heat on one area at a time. Use the high heat setting while gently pulling hair straight to create a smooth, even finish.

Conditioning Healthy Hair:
Use a leave-in conditioning treatment to smooth the cuticles of hair that may have been stressed though chemical processing. View: Chemically Treated Hair Products

Prevent breakage. Don't brush wet hair. Avoid over-use of high-heat stylers.

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